Waugh 1901

I was very careful in cutting this one out.  I used the rotary cutter and took my time.  It was well worth it because as I pinned, the pieces folded together like a beautiful origami.  I still need to stitch it together and try it on, but it looks totally do-able.  The first pinned try-on (with the in muslin reverse, fill of pins, no busk, no boning, no grommet panel) it fit like a glove.  So, I'll have to see what happens when the mock-up is completed.  Looking at it more objectively here, I may increase the busk length by an inch.
I love this corset!
This muslin was pinned about a month ago, pre-Christmas rush.

Cording Experiment

I’d collected three different cord-like materials to try out for my 1880’s corset.  I’ve deliberately used different materials than Bridges on the Body in an effort to expand the current knowledge of what might be useful and their qualities for potential future projects.
  
[note: when I went back and read her cording post, it still turns out that we came to similar conclusions: the cotton filler is more consistent than hemp or man-made filler.  I have the idea that the blind cord may prove too thick, ultimately, but I really like it, so I'm going to give it a try.)
 
The materials did not all act the way I’d expected, so this was very much a great project.
I’d collected some hemp, some cooking twine that’s generally used to tie dead animals, I mean, meat, before shoving them into an oven, and found a length of nylon cord left from another project lying around to put to good use.

The nylon cord lost all of it’s body when run through the machine.  Therefore, for the last four rows, I ran the casings down quickly on the machine and then inserted the cord via the largest, longest upholstery needle I could find.

Grocery store solution: $1.29

The needle sliding is the more traditional method of cording and it actually worked faster than trying to hold the whole thing in place while running it through the machine. (I could have used pins, but it seems too fussy.  One really just needs to be up as close to the zipper foot as possible.) It also looked “loftier”, when I was through, not having just been flattened under the feed dog and zipper foot.

Then, I went hunting for the cooking string and realized that I’d lost it.  So, at the fabric shop I located some heavy Venetian blind cord and purchased some of that.  I’m glad I did.  It is .25 cents per yard, and went in very smoothly by just running it along side the zipper foot.  It did not flatten out against the feed dog and zipper foot but began to take on immediate sculptural qualities, which is the whole point.
 
By the time I had four rows complete, I knew the Venetian blind cord was the clear winner, but for the sake of the experiment, I went ahead and ran the hemp ding through anyway.  It smells terrible due to the dye, so that it’s immediate drawback.  It was un-even and very lumpy, had no sculptural “hand” until I ran three pieces, via the upholstery needle again, through each casing.  In the end, it has more a sculptural quality than the nylon cord, but was annoying to work with, even using the tapestry/upholstery needle for insertion.  Note how the fabric has pulled out of shape around it and looks marred, even after pressing.  I stopped after two rows, as there was no need to continue.

#2 - Venetian Blind Cord = The Winner!

Other things to note from this project:

Coutil needs a pressing cloth or it will get shiny- scorchy under a too-hot iron. 

The cord should be cut and not “wrapped” at the ends as seen here.  The doubling-back makes for an uneven start of the next run.  In fact, I believe that I’ll probably baste it lightly into place to make sure it’s even before I run the casings for it.

I initially thought that the heavy cord would alter the fabric by having it shrink a bit from the insertion.  While it must, the backing piece seems to absorb some of the bulk as well.  I used regular muslin for the backing here and they both ended up the same size against each other that they started as.  So while the piece may shrink a bit over all, due to cord insertion, front and back seem to remain consistent as a unit.  That is something to keep in mind when cutting the four front pieces: cut a bit longer and adjust them to the pattern after cord insertion.

My other concern is that the pattern seems to indicate that the boning channels run over the placed cording.  Not sure how that’s going to work.  Am considering running the channels behind the cording first, then stitching in the cord.  Alternatively, I could stitch the boning channel to the front and adjust the cords to fit into the pockets created by doing so, one segment on each side of the boning channel.

Scaling Up Waugh

Envelopes help keep things organized

Today I went to the copy center to scale up a few Norah Waugh patterns.  What I thought was going to be a 10-minute project turned into about 3 hours of me fussing with the machine and scissors, tape and paper, book and…know how you know you’ve got something right?  The task starts to sail and hum, there is actual progress along with action.

Here’s what I learned: to scale the patterns marked 1-6 inches up, 1 inch = 1/4’ in the book.  This may hold true for the other patterns, marked 1 – 3 as well, although these look smaller, but I haven’t tried them yet.  By selecting “400%”  (the max allowed by the copy machine I was using, just by coincidence) I expanded the inch unit on the pattern up to an actual inch.  That was the easy part, actually getting an entire pattern piece to print out on one sheet of paper was another story.

Anyway, after making a mess and wasting at least $4.00, I learned to make a base copy at 100% first (to avoid damaging the book) and then I cut out the tiny corset pieces.  (This was my favorite part of this process, btw.) 

Then, I lay my pieces, one by one, in turn, long-ways in the corner of the copy machine bed, (the corner of the copy machine with the arrow pointing this-a-way) selected 400% in size and legal-sized paper and voila!  A full-sized, paper pattern, one corset piece to each sheet!

Full-Sized Pattern

I did three corsets this way and purchased some manila envelopes to keep them all organized.  Each tiny corset and each full-scale piece, cut out, is now in it’s own individual corset pattern envelope with a picture and description of the corset on the outside of the envelope.  Inside the larger envelope, I tucked the tiny corset pieces into their own regular, business-sized envelope so they wouldn’t get lost.

Now that I know what I’m doing, it is, in fact, a 10-minute job!  However, here’s the tricky part: even scaled up, the patterns look very tiny, like about a size “0” or “2” in current US sizes.  Without measuring, the waist looks to be about a 22", so there’s still much work to be done.

Sewing Notes

I just picked up An Introduction to Sewing and Fabric to make sure that I'm up to speed with my basic sewing knowledge.  It's a wonderful introduction to sewing.  I'm re-learning things I learned years ago.  So far, the most important thing I've re-learned is:

Stitch length should adjust according to fabric type and whether or not the project is a construction seam or a run of top-stitching; and that thread content should vary according to application along with the needle type, but they work hand-in-hand.  These will make a difference in how the fabric reacts to being stitched and the final finish in top-stitching.

Go get sewing!

New York Fashion Week

New York: Fall Fashion Week!

Last week, New York was getting ready for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  I was hanging out in the garment district, watching gorgeous models descend and converge, and guys hauling huge bins of almost-ready-to-wears from point A to point B across 8th Ave when I snapped this cool picture.

The Book Arrived Today!!

I've wanted this book for so long, you'd think that I'd already have it but, today was the day.  It arrived.  I am so excited!!  A large, plain white box came in the mail.

And then there it was: better than described!  A gorgeous hardback with it's original dust-jacket in awesome condition, containing 18 full corset patterns!  I literally wanted to jump up & down with glee!

I can't wait to blow them up to size, mock them up, sew them up and wear them all out.  OH, I am so in love with this book!!

New York, New York

Good friends and I caught the MetroNorth down to Grand Central to visit NYC for the day.

We ate out at Yummy Sushi, hung at Babeland and CharmingWall.  We went to Deco Jewels in Soho and met Ms. Berkson, author of Carry Me! I can't wait to go back!

Needle Grippers!

I finally sourced some very diminutive Dritz Needle Grippers at A.C. Moore.  $2.00 is better than the huge version on Amazon for $11.34.  ($11.34 for needle grippers???  Does anyone find that curious besides me?) In the past, I’ve simply used an old pair of hemostats or some other form of pliers for the task of pulling through a pesky needle.  People on both of the new sites I’m reading have been raving about this tool.  I’ve seen them before, but never thought much about them, so I’ll have to report back when I actually get a chance to use one.

Bridges on the Body

Yet another great site!  That’s two in one week!  I’ve learned so much from reading Bridges on the Body that I can barely catch my breath!  She’s doing all of Waugh’s Corsets and Crinolines, one corset at a time!

To quote: "When I complete this challenge I hope to be able to say, "yeah, I can sew," and "yeah, I know a bit about corsets.""
 
I’m more than ridiculously jealous and will have to follow suit, just to gain the experience that will come from embarking on such a project.  I’ve never even considered such a large-scale sewing project before!!
Go read and follow her!  It’s extremely motivating.

I’ve got to stop gushing and reading and get working.

Foundations Revealed

Joined an AMAZING corset-making group!!  It’s called Foundation’s Revealed out of the UK run by a woman named Cathy Hay who also runs Harmon Hay.  It’s too good to be believed, I’m so happy I’ve found it!  I’ve found a wealth of information there and I’d yak all about it but it’s taken me days to read it and absorb.  Many tips for fitting a corset, making corsets, and corset case studies.  You’ll just have to join and find out!
Today was my birthday and my mother in law gave me an adorable, yet large, box she picked up at Joann's or Michael's or someplace.  It's large enough to hold most of my small corset supplies, so they are all on one place.

Who’s that Tap-Tap-Tapping on my Chamber Door?

Started a new Etsy shop today.  I want Ophelia’s Chamber cleaned up for new, hand-made products, hence, I am moving the bulk of my vintage treasures to ChamberDoor.

Brooklyn Art Library's Sketchbook Project

In order to boost self into a permanent collection I've applied to be part of the sketchbook project at the new Brooklyn Art Library.  My theme is "Nighttime Stories", my moleskin cover is black.  It arrived today and it is due in January.  I'll be posting more as I go alone.

"The Girls" Necklace Finally Started

Pictures forthcoming due to dropping camera on the floor.  (Whoops!)
Laid out my necklace of copper and amethyst on the board and started stringing.  I like the way it's coming out!  Addiing "the Girls" will be a breeze!

Before the After

Am experiencing camera difficulties. Dropped it on floor. Technically, it still works, but it seems like the recharge-ables last for about 5 - 10 minutes. Which is what the problem was first out of the box. Then, the time improved up a few sessions of 6- 10 pics. After dropping it, everything is back down to 5 mins for batteries and 4 pictures before the stick is full.
I'm also stalling because I've spent time at stupid temp jobs instead of in my studio creating and cleaning. So, there is nothing to show. No work/artistic life balance going here. Nothing to see.

Focus on Nature XI

 James Gurney

Titanoboa (Titanoboa cerrejonensis)
Oil, 2009

from New York State Museum

Really amazing show of insects and other small, creepy and awesome animals going on at the New York State Museum.  Went with with Husband at his insistence.  (Sometimes, he just drags me out in spite of my self.)  Most of them used graphite and watercolor, but the control involved in their creation, so fine and clean is really amazing and I'm going back to see them again.  They seem primarily regional, but not necessarily so.

Still Cleaning

Process
The studio is still in the throws of being re-organized. Or perhaps, actually organized. Well, organized for this incarnation, for it actually "comes together and falls apart" [a quote from Pema Chodron] over and over again. What I noticed last night is that the paper I have falls into a few categories: For Scrapbooking; Visual Reference Material; Collage Material; Business Materials; Project Outlines; Stationary; Loose Journal Entries; Other Writing; Blog Reference Material; and Dead Files that I keep but cannot recall why. Additionally, the Visual Reference Material tends to go stale as it is subject to trends that once incorporated in my world view, are no longer necessary to hold onto. Some reference material of that nature is also repetitive, as I tend to collect the things I'm drawn to over and over: eyes, cats, bats, chandeliers, far-away places and cool clothing. The point is to collect far less of it and move on. Thankfully, most of what I had can be let go or was recycling on its way out the door to begin with.

The objects I have, while many, are not so many and of such significant variety that they are infinite in variety or defy categories or organization. I've been cursing the space, the objects and my self when in fact, once contained, I own a smattering of art & craft supplies that are very enjoyable. I used to think that organization was anathema to creation. It had reached a point where disorganization was preventing me from moving forward as an artist as well as a person. It feels really good to make decisions and start looking at less.

Studio Cleaning: Before

A Second Pair of Eyes
Map came over to help clear out the studio for two full days. Having the second pair of well-informed eyes was invaluable.

Best: I told him that it felt like a plug has been pulled on a tub of dirty bathwater. He knows all of my secrets, in fact, he gave most of them to me.

He cleared out the space behind the door. Not only does the door now open, I can walk in, it feels like a room, the sound quality has changed from over-stuffed closet to that of an actual chamber.

He was able to corral and contain my categories: something that would have taken me weeks. I just couldn’t see them any more. Now things are labeled and it feels really good.

No grocery store bags. They cannot be used to organize my stuff. I need clear containers and these containers must be labeled.

Fabric, even the recycled/upcycled, needs to be cut up if necessary and stored by color.

Do not keep art reference books, music cds or completed art projects in the studio. They belong somewhere else.

He kept me focused and did a ton of stuff and had lots of cool suggestions.

Worst: I felt rushed.

I kept hiding crap from him that I didn’t want him to toss or re-purpose or give to somewhere/somebody else.

While I’d just geared up, he was over and done. I can clean for hours and hours. He has about a 2-3 hour window, and then must move on to sitting in coffee shops, talking and reading: endeavors which are fun, but not nearly as productive for me. Know when to call it quits.

He’s afraid that I’m just going to gum up my space again.



Best Insight: That by having so very much stuff around me, the sifting, turning, sorting and re-stacking turns into the enjoyable, creative endeavor for me, rather than the actual production of something useful and/or beautiful. (In the field of clutter control this is called “churning”.) The cleaning becomes the creative endeavor in and of itself. The bottom line is: do I want to paint, collage and sew corsets, dolls, clothing and bags or do I just want to root around in the dust with 4 year old Vogue magazines? It was tough.

Second Best Insight: I’m carrying my past, my family, my wishes for my long-past future, my lost friends, my dreams and conditions in all of my stuff. I’ve avoided cleaning because to clean is to admit that certain times, eras, ideas and possibilities for my life are over.

Third: That most of my books are completely obsolete and should have been gone from my life years ago. This also shakes me to my core.